Ok I'm on iris.to right now and it seems to have the best indicators on messages for likes, replies, etc - but my follower count is way off. Curious why relays have such crazy diverging data on things...
nostrgram.co has a lot of filters and layouts to choose from and a rollback recovery feature if you lose your follows or follower lists (not sure how that happens but it does). It has a really cool feed option of your follows + their follows, which gives you a one degree of separation feed.